Kwik Sew 3586

Hi! I haven’t sewn much Kwik Sew and I’m not sure they are making new patterns but this button front caught my eye. When I purged my patterns I got rid of my S8014 pattern so I drafted a button up shirt pattern. I’m still refining the fit of my draft so I though I would use this pattern in the meantime. It is a basic button front pattern with two views, the sizing on this pattern is semi inclusive and is a solid pattern. If you are not accustomed to working with smaller seam allowances, I would recommend adding just in case seam allowances for fitting.

As we get into fall, I need to replace a few tops, I have a chambray version cut out and after making this one I’m thinking I should have made a princess seamed version. I like the fit of princess seams and will probably trace off a copy of this pattern and convert the front and back pieces to princess seams. I’ve been working on this top for a while, I had to do a few fit adjustments, but before I get into that, I’ll give you specifics on the pattern.

This pattern has the following:

-1/4″ seam allowances

-Pocket pattern piece

-Separate yoke

-Darted front

-Sleeves are set in flat

-Sleeve placket and cuff

-Attached front button placket

I thought it was interesting to have a commercial pattern for a women’s top with small seam allowances that instructs you to set the sleeves in flat. Setting the sleeve in flat is super easy, I looked through my ready to wear shirts and my husbands tailored shirts and they are all set in flat with flat felled seams. This pattern doesn’t give you enough seam allowance for flat felled seams but that is an easy adjustment. I will be sewing in my sleeves flat in the future because I can’t tell if it changes the structure of the garment, It feels the same as my sleeves that are set in the round.

For my adjustments:

-I Cut a size 2x

-1″ length adjustment to the bodice and sleeve

-Forward shoulder adjustment

-I added to the back hip to give additional space

-I discovered I need to add to sleeve cap height so I added just over an inch after making a muslin

-I did a full bicep adjustment

-I cut the outer yoke on the bias

Overall, I’m happy with the shirt, I scorched my collar while ironing so the mandarin collar is a last minute design detail, I didn’t have any more fabric. I left off the pocket because I didn’t like the way the pocked fit on the front, I will shorten the darts when using the pocket so that area is flat. I will say it’s nice to not have to trim seam allowances, but you also have to be precise with your seams because you don’t have a lot of wiggle room.

The fabric is a designer cotton poplin deadstock I purchased last year from LA Finch Fabrics. The fabric feels really nice and the gridlines are fun. Until next time…