On trend Shacket: Simplicity 9388

It’s been a while since I’ve blogged one of my makes. I wore a jacket the other day and I know I made it, but I couldn’t remember the pattern or the adjustments, ugh! I started blogging to keep track of what I made and also as a reference for the adjustments and my pattern/fabric likes and dislikes. Over the course of the last year and a half I just haven’t prioritized sewing and or documenting my sewing. That crap stops today LOL, I always tell myself I’ll remember what I did, Lies!!! I will not remember at all!

I’ve been buying lots of clothes and not finishing my makes, that’s what I’ve been up to in a nut shell. I get started on a project and then half way through I start something else. For some that maybe ok, but for me that leaves me with 4 half finished projects, not good for me. When I look online for inspiration, I’ll see a garment and say, nope, I can make that. Then I say, well, it’ll take me too long to make it, I should buy it. It’s a vicious cycle LOL. I’ve recently purchased a few items that I like ( mostly the cut, the fabric and how easy I will receive the garment). I’ve been sewing a lot slower lately because of my sewing accident and my almost non existent sew jo.

I forgot to write about my sewing accident. I’ve seen people sew their finger before, actually a few weeks before the last accident, I sewed my finger with minimal trauma but apparently something was up, I did it again. I sewed my finger the beginning of October and the trauma to my hand is still felt to this day. Countless trips to the doctor and I’m glad to report I have a finger guard on my machine that will hopefully prevent future mistakes. Also, I’ve rearranged my sewing room (back to the original set up from 4 years ago), this current set up does not have me looking at the tv. I’m ok with listening to the TV, but I have to pay attention to what I’m doing because I get distracted quickly.

I saw the Shacket trend last year and I’m not a collar person so I didn’t jump on it, I don’t know why I don’t care for collars or things around my neck. As I looked online, I saw them everywhere, one day, I needed a lightweight jacket for a casual outing and I wanted a shacket (SMH). Well, I didn’t have one and I wanted something with nice fall colors and an oversize fit. My denim jacket was more fitted than I wanted and my casual jacket I made few years ago was the wrong color. I decided I wanted a shacket at that moment, the question was, do I make it or buy it. I saw them in the store and online and I just couldn’t see myself buying it when I could make one. I really like the large plaid patterns on ready to wear but, they are usually not the length I want, ugh. I like a longer tunic length and that’s what encouraged me to make it, the length. Since I decided to make it, I would try and make it a little different than what I’ve been seeing but still wearable (if it’s too crazy I won’t wear it a lot, I can be basic (sigh) ). I didn’t want to spend Indie pattern prices for such a easy design and I could have used my block but being lazy, I purchased a pattern. As they say, the rest is history…

Pattern name:

Simplicity 9388

Size range (with measurements):

Unisex XXS-XXL

What size did you make?

I made XL at the neck/Shoulder and graded to XXL at the bust, waist and hip.

What adjustments did you make and how long did they take?

This took me a bit because I took my time, I’d say from start to finish probably 7-8 hours total.

I lengthened view B six inches (two inches for my height, I’m 5′ 9″ and four additional inches for style). I did my standard forward should adjustment for the bodice front, back and sleeve. For the pockets, I did not add the side seam pockets, and I cut the front pocket and flap on the bias. I also cut the outer back yoke on the bias. For the upper collar and front button band, I cut them out of black flannel for a little visual interest. I thought of making the cuffs black but it was too late and I didn’t have enough black fabric. I was going to make a shirttail hem but at the last minute decided against it. I didn’t want to fiddle with hemming, pure laziness. I made three inch vents at the side seam, I probably should have made them six inches for functionality.

What fabric did you use?

I used a plaid flannel for the outer fabric and for the accent and lining, black flannel from Joann Fabrics and Craft

What was the construction process like? Did the instructions make sense to you?

Instructions are pretty straight forward for commercial sewing patterns. They don’t go into finishing seams but If I make it again, I will use flat felled seams. I overlocked the sleeve and armhole and used pre-made bias binding on the side seams. Construction is typical for a shirt except how you finish the sleeve. The sleeves are set in flat which is typical for mens shirt. However, this was the first pattern I’ve made that did not have a continuous placket for the sleeve, you just turn and topstitch. I probably would make my own continuous placket or a tower placket for the sleeve if you want to level this up just a bit. I like that the front yoke like the back has a lining which gives a clean finish for the collar and the inside of the shacket.

How do you like the pattern’s fit? Do you think the design works well for your particular body shape?

Pattern is a boxy oversized unisex shirt. There is minimal shaping and no darts. It fits like a loose fitting shirt/jacket, if you have larger hips, I would pick your size based on your bust and adjust for the hip. I made the larger size at the bust to ensure I hade enough ease. The sleeves are super large so I would probably narrow them at the sleeve hem an inch or so. The pocket was not graded and in my mind should have been a bigger, the scale of the pattern seems off for the looseness of the jacket. I didn’t really notice it until later, I should have evaluated pocket placement before sewing them. I get irritated sometimes with pattern makers who do not grade outer pockets but that’s a gripe for another day.

Will you make the pattern again?

Probably not. The pattern is fine, I’m not a button up type so I won’t need many of these in my closet. I would like to make a chore jacket but I wouldn’t use this pattern because I’m not a fan of the drop shoulder sleeves. A slight drop is ok but this is an exaggerated dropped shoulder. If you are curvy, and you want a structured jacket, I would use a fitted pattern. If you must use this one, I would do a FBA, adjust for the hip and play around with the side seam fit before finalizing. I think this pattern is good for beginners, very little fitting and you get experience top/edge stitching, sewing a collar and making button holes.

Until next time…