Style Sew Me Charita Dress

Can I say, I love this dress!  This is the second garment I’ve made from Style Sew Me Patterns, the first was the Madison cardigan.   I really, really wanted to make a pattern from a black designer because there are so few out there (insert eye roll).  I also wanted to sew an indie pattern, ugh, also not many black indie sewing pattern makers!  This dress fit the bill, how did I pick?  I started with the dress because I didn’t see many reviews for the Charita dress also, a bodycon dress, sure!  I want to support an independent pattern maker because I know it’s a lot of work and money to develop a pattern line and if I like it I will sew it. 

About this dress, I have to admit I don’t typically wear bodycon dresses, I’m not a fan of super tight clothes with lots of negative ease.  I like my clothes to fit and skim but not super tight.  When the Madison cardigan came out, I went looking through the site and really liked the dress.  I like the color blocking, sleeveless design and the length.  I haven’t seen any plus size bodies make the dress, although they may have I just haven’t seen any on IG.

I cut an XL at the shoulder and neckline and graded to the XXL from the under bust to the hem.  I did add just in case ease to the side seams (half inch) because again, I’m not a fan of super tight and also, there are no finished garment measurements on the pattern or in the instructions.  I had to do a lot of flat pattern measuring (I didn’t write the measurements down, insert eye roll)  to figure out what adjustments I need.   I took out the added ease at the bust and added a little more to the waist as my waist is full after my first basted fitting.  I added two inches to the hem during my flat pattern measuring.  After I measured the back length (after I cut it, insert eye roll), I realized I should have added an inch just above the waist front and back and not to the bottom (can you say lazy?!).  Finally, I did my customary forward shoulder adjustment.  After I basted everything, I realized I had a little gaping at the bust but since I didn’t do an FBA and added to the sides, I took a wedge to the bottom seam of the yoke (between the yoke and the front of the dress) to get rid of the gaping.  The hip was a bit curvy so I straighten the hip curve and pegged the hem a half inch before finalizing the seams.

I used a rayon and lycra ponte knit and performance/dance knit for the color block.  The instructions do not give tips for working with knits and since the hems and necklines are turned and top stitched, I stabilized the armhole and neckline with strips of tricot interfacing.  I stabilized the shoulders with clear elastic.  I usually interface the seam allowance of the front side seam and the hem, but for this I didn’t, but my next version I will.  I will also make a center back seam next time to add shaping to the back and alleviate my sway back.  There’s a sew a long on Youtube, but if you need written instructions, the last step (step 9) tells you to fold under your hem, but doesn’t tell you to stitch it.  This is not a big deal, but know that you can either stitch the hem or use fusible hem tape (appropriate for knits).

I believe this dress is well drafted and true to size, also, the instructions are good but very basic (one page) but appropriate.  The pattern doesn’t tell you how much stretch your knit should have, so know that this is a body conscious dress with negative ease (the instructions let you know that this is a fitted dress) so, I would use a knit with at least 50% stretch and good recovery.  I’d say with the sew along, a beginner could sew this and I would recommend it.    Finally, I like that I didn’t have to grade this pattern up, that’s also a thing for me!

What do you think of this dress?  Have you sewn this one up?