Another Skirt and Vogue 1567 Paco Peralta

Neckline is a little too high for me but this blue is soo me.

So, I’m still in skirt mode, I need a few more, because who doesn’t need skirts?  I’m in an office environment, but I don’t want to look like an “office worker” so I’m trying to mix things up while keeping professional.  I can use color, texture and fabric to style my wardrobe, as long as it’s not too short, too tight and too over the top (whatever that means).  I like color and print and I try to break things up for work as not to overwhelm the senses.  This is a hard one but what I try to do is keep things neutral either with my jacket or top and use a print or color on bottom or reverse. 

I love this skirt pattern and will make many more in all variations, I think it’s time to mix things up a bit with the pattern.  I have one more in navy I have to finish and then I’m good to add some details.

I love my skirt block!

Over on the Sew Much Talent Facebook group, we are sewing from some of our Indie patterns in the group.  Spanish designer Paca Peralta is in the group and he just released the cutest dress pattern for Vogue (V1593).  I’m so making this dress, but I needed a cute top to go with my skirt so I decided to make this top first.  It’s a boat neck top with a nice V in back so it’s a perfect transition piece.  I’m not necessarily ready for fall, but I made this top in ponte and it’s beefy it feels fallish.  This will be great for the arctic temperatures in my office.  Now, I’ll overheat from the building to the car, but whateves right lol!

I’m so making this!

My skirt is a stretch sateen and the top is ponte knit.  For the top, I graded the side seams up to a 24 and shaved five inches off the sleeve to make it three quarter sleeve.  I didn’t have enough of the blue so I made a design change and color blocked the top by cutting the back in black.  I wouldn’t have made this change but fabric restraints will allow you to use your imagination.  I was doing a bit of stash busting and that’s good for wearable muslins, the fabric couldn’t have been used for anything else really because of the limited quantity.  I may make the top again and I would recommend the top, it’s a simple dolman sleeve top.  I’m not a fan of boatnecks, this style of neckline restricts the opening up of my neckline, and I like to open up my neckline to frame my face.  My shoulders and back are fleshy so the combination sometimes can be
weird on me.  My fabric didn’t have much drape, but a jersey would
drape nicely on my shoulders and chest.  I like it as a cowl so although
Paco didn’t draft it that way, I like it on me as a cowl.  I’ll make it one more time in a nice jersey and see if lies better on my shoulders.

I like it better as a cowl

Not sure what this face is lol

I didn’t intend on this being a muslin because it’s so basic, but I
didn’t account for the high neckline (rookie move, the technical drawings and model on envelope show very high neckline), sleeve and the shoulder/ all in one facing and I wasn’t counting on the lack of stretch of my fabric.  It
will take a bit of tweaking to get the look Paco was going for on me, I
don’t like to feel choked, and stabilizing the neckline keeps it
straight across the chest.  In a ponte, a lil too stable for me,  in a
drapier fabric that would be good, but I like it draped in front so I’m good with my design change. 

I like the hand picked lapped zipper

The instructions call for stabilizing the neckline with stay tape and the use lots of hand stitching.  They also instructed you to baste a bit which help with fitting and having control of the fabric.  The only real dislike with this pattern is how it’s graded, the pattern is graded on the side seams but not under the arm/ sleeve width.  I didn’t pay attention  because it’s such a basic top with set on sleeve, I completely missed it until I tried it on during my basted fitting.

So, if you have fleshy biceps, I would recommend measuring the sleeve portion and making adjustments as needed even though it’s a set on sleeve, the issue will be at the top of the arm and shoulder.   Also you can’t really adjust how wide or shallow you want the neckline because of the facing, and the nature of the boat neck, I mean you can, but it will take a bit of tweaking.  I would say err on the side of a fabric with good drape and stretch for this and know this is neckline is high, just like the pattern envelope.

I like the back!

For the skirt, I used my skirt block.  For this pencil skirt, I pegged the hem 2.5 inches and added a two inch yoke to the waist.  I used a lapped zipper with a hand picked finish (this is my favorite zipper installation).  I originally lined the skirt but it was horrible so I took it out and made this slip.   I have another skirt identical to this one in a neutral color I need to finish and I’m looking for a top to make to go with it and I’ll share it with you.  Typically I like making garments that go along with something in my closet and others, I like to make an outfit, it’s fun!

Here are a few skirts(woven) that are similar to what I drafted and some have very interesting design changes, use your imagination:

Simplicity 8652
Adelica Fashion 
Simplicity 8699
Butterick 5566
Butterick 5466
Burda 3/2018

I’m going through my work wear wardrobe to see what items I’d like to add to supplement what I already have and I will hopefully have some plans for my work wardrobe.  For my casual wardrobe, there are a few button ups I would like to make, some casual pants a sweater and a jacket.  I’m looking through my Burda, Ottobre and commercial patterns to finalize my choices.

Until next time…