Pattern Review: S1421+ #TBCSewalong

As I patiently awaited the results of the plus size contest on Sewing Pattern Review, I kept shuffling threw my patterns to see what I wanted to sew next.  Ughh, I keep buying patterns, but I can only sew so fast and I feel like I’m being over taken!   While cruising Facebook, one of the bloggers I follow was having a sew along for a blazer.  Yay, something already in my stash and one of my favorite items of clothing.  One of the reasons I start sewing was to learn how to alter my fitted blazers, so this was perfect.

For more info on the sew along, check out That Black Chic here.  This is a wearable muslin since I did a tissue fitting before hand.   With all that is involved in a blazer and the type of fabric I was using, I thought the traditional muslin fabric wouldn’t have worked for this project or I didn’t want to do it because I’m lazy?  lol, any who on to the review.

Pattern Description:  


Misses’ unlined jacket can be made with or without collar and has separate pattern pieces 


for A, B, C, D cup sizes. Jacket can be made with the option of applying trim, adding 


purchased bias tape, or making your own 




Pattern Sizing:  


Size 16-24  I cut a 22 D cup

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?  

Yes!  However, my sleeves did not look as nice, nothing to do with the pattern and more of a user error.

Were the instructions easy to follow?  


Yes.  I got confused on which side to put which sleeve and still messed that up, but Michelle explained lots of things to include how to work the collar, bias tape and sleeves in the sew a long and I could have asked additional questions.  Things like finessing and easing sleeves takes practice!

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?  


I like the cup sizing!  That alone was worth the cost of the pattern, everything else can be used from other patterns.

I disliked the lack of pocket variations, the sleeve vent and the lack of back vent options and the lack of non bias binding view.  I think View c should have been a traditional method of attaching the facing and collar with out binding.

Fabric Used:


I used a woven stretch sateen Cotton blend with 3% lycra from Fabric Mart. ** the fabric was flawed after I washed it and I’m not sure if it was my fault or not as I dumped a lot of fabric in at one time..eeekkkk… so that’s why I used it as a muslin.  I also thought it would have a little give to it.

 Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:  


*I graded the pattern from 22 at the bust to 24 at the hip at the side seams only (Side back and Side front pieces only)
*Added an additional 5/8 in seam to side seams only to bring seam allowance to 1 in for ease in fitting at side back and side front pieces only.
*I slashed and spread the upper sleeve by 1 in.  Next time I will slash the upper and lower by an inch each or another combination of adjustments.
* I need to add 3 in to the sleeve length
* per the recommendation from the sew along I cut 4 pieces for the pocket and sewed right sides together and turned out and top stitched as opposed to interfacing and turning under.
* I only interfaced the collar and back facing for the wearable muslin.  I have to find an interfacing that wont bubble up before using it on the entire front facing next time.
*I think next time I need a 1/2 inch narrow shoulder adjustment.
* I Purchased more bias tape just in case.
* I need to figure out how to do a nice button hole on Lycra!  I tried interfacing it and it didn’t look so good to me, I used black thread and when I went to use my seam ripper all I saw was white from the fabric and drags and runs from snagging the fabric.

Would you sew it again? 


Yes, I think I will make view A  and try my hand at some couture techniques.  If I make View B again, I will not use the binding and make in a basic color and non stretch fabric for an everyday work blazer.  I would also do an in seam pocket for a sleeker look if for a work blazer.

Would you recommend it to others?


Yes, I would say do a muslin in a similar fabric first to work out how to do a button hole, how to finesse/ ease the sleeves and how to miter the corners using the bias tape.  I think that it’s good for advanced beginners because anything fitted needs adjustments and some of the techniques take a little practice.  However, I think a beginner could tackle it if they read through the directions or use a sew along and get comfortable with the things I listed.

Cost:

Pattern: $.99
Fabric: $4.50 per yard I used a little under 3 yards
Notions: Buttons $4

Total: $18.50

Time:


Over the course of the sew along which was 5 days I think I spent maybe about 7 hours including tracing the pattern and the fitting adjustments.

BONUS:

I made these darling earrings using a covered button kit and super glue.  I cut fabric based on the directions in the kit and super glued a earring post to the back side, super easy!

Conclusion:


I’m happy I did the sew along and I would do it again!  The pattern has good lines and bones because of the cup sizing so I will keep it my stash until I find a “TNT” blazer pattern.

What is your Tried & True blazer pattern?