DIY Faux jumpsuit + Burda 6218

Who doesn’t love a jumpsuit or better yet a faux jumpsuit?  Separates are great because they stretch your wardrobe and allow for lots of different looks.  This color is great and the pictures aren’t doing it any justice.  I pretreated the fabric using Dryel, I have a little bit left and I’m going to wash and dry to see how it does.  I didn’t pay attention that the fabric is dry clean but the color was soo good I couldn’t pass it up.

You ve seen this self drafted dolman/kimono top here, I made the top and pants in a suiting and I really love the color and drape, its not too thin and not to heavy.  I like Burda patterns, the only issue I have with the the pattern is really the instructions, I’ve talked about it before but they don’t hand hold as much as most.  I made view A and I used my pants block to pick a size, I made a 24 (50) at the waist and 26(52) at the hip, I could have gone down to a 22 (48) at the waist.  I like the length for summer pants and the leg width is good for me, it looks good with my hip width.

I followed the instructions and forgot to stabilize the pocket.  Most patterns do not tell you to stabilize pockets and zippers but I’m telling you , even if they don’t tell you, stabilize zippers and pockets.  I did remember to use interfacing to stabilize the invisible zipper seam allowance.  I typically use stay tape for pockets, pockets are usually cut on the bias so they can stretch as you put your hand in and out of it.  I like the belt loops on view A and the separate view for inseam pockets and drawstring.  I think view b would be cute as joggers.   I don’t really care for side seam invisible zippers or side seam zippers in general, most hips are curvy so adding a zipper can look weird.  This worked out but I’d probably make a fly zipper for casual pants.

The adjustments I made were: deepening the center front crotch curve and adding a little over an inch to the back crotch extension.  I lengthened the darts about an inch and I took a half inch tuck at center back ( a small sway back).  My block made it super easy to see what fit adjustments needed to be made.  I didn’t over fit my waist because there was a belt/tie and there was a zipper on the side seam, when I put the zipper at center front I will take in about an inch and a half at the waist side seams.

I lined up my block’s center back with the center back of the pattern and lined up crotch lines  ensuring grainlines were straight.  From there I started evaluating what changes need to be made.  Here’s a Youtube tutorial from Sew To Fit on how to use your block/sloper to fit a pattern.

That’s it, I’ve successfully drafted pants from my block and used my block as a master pattern for fit adjustments for commercial patterns.  I have a few more pairs of shorts I’ve made and now I’m trying to figure out what else I want to make for the summer.  I’m thinking I want a v neck version of this top and maybe a knit version and I can always use a few dresses.