Shorts, Shorts, Shorts
I have made lots of shorts! I have taken my pants block and adjusted the inseam to create shorts. I’ve made solid, prints, welts, pleat, elastic back and fly fronts with zippers. I’ve used stretch twills, Ankara, tencel, linen, etc., the options are endless. I think if you have a pair of pants that fit, experiment with lengths and make shorts. I know those with larger thighs like mine struggle with riding up between the legs and I find for my thighs, 8″-15″ inseam tends to work for me. The closer the fit and heavier the fabric the less riding between the legs. There’s a balance between length, fabric and thigh ease that will determine the comfort of shorts.
These shorts are from my block, they have elastic at the back, pockets and a flat front. The inseam is about 14″ and I’ve made them out of an Ankara print.
I know experimentation for some equals money wasted but truthfully, if you don’t have pants/ shorts or anything that fits, that’s what’s required. There isn’t a standard that applies to everybody so you have to try things, wear them and tweak the fit. Following body doubles help and asking questions will help tweak fit too. My only advice is to make the shorts longer and with a good amount of ease, you can always shorten or tighten if need be. This is after you get it fitted at the waist, hip and crotch. Finally, good enough will have to be good enough. Fitting is part geometry, part experience and part intuition. In the end, sometimes you need help with what to nip, tuck, raise or drop to get things fitting good. Have fun with it!
These shorts are variations of my pants block, this pair has welts in a stretch twill. I basted the side seams and took in a bit to counteract the stretch, the welts are Ankara remnants. I tried three different welts before I felt confident enough to make it. I also tried a bunch of different welt patterns, I didn’t adjust my dart placement or dart length and that’s a note for next time. Because I wanted a single welt, I went with a modified version of this tutorial. I made the welt 1″ wider to accommodate my body, I also made the welts faux, I don’t put stuff in my back pocket so a functioning welt wasn’t needed. For a traditional mens inspired double welt, I will use and recommend Carol’s tutorial, it is pretty much foolproof. I also added belt loops to this pair to give the classic walking shorts look.
Lastly, I made the Cashmerette Ames Jeans. I added 1/2 in to the side seam allowance so I would have a 1″ seam allowance. The fabric I used didn’t have as much stretch as the pattern called for so I sewed the side seams at 1/2″ ultimately adding two inches of ease. I also added an inch to the back crotch extension and slashed and spread at the hip line adding an inch. I used my pants block to give me an idea of crotch curve and length. I didn’t need the additional inch I added at center back and will take it out the next time I make this pattern. The rise on these pants are good for me, however, I don’t like the fly sip insertion, I always mess it up.
I’ve made the Ellis skirt twice and I struggled with the fly zip insertion, it’s probably me and not the instructions. I decided to cut the inseam at 12″ initially and shaved a little more after construction, I wanted a cut off shorts look. The fabric is from Joann, I’ll make again from some stretch cones mills denim. Overall, I’m satisfied with the shorts and will make this pattern again, actually I’m thinking of making it two more times.
The top is self drafted made in a rayon Challis, here’s the original post about the top. That’s it, I made basic, simple design changes to change up the look of these shorts. This can be done with any indie or commercial pattern. Trace off a copy of your pattern and play around, borrow design elements from pants and shorts of other patterns and try things out.
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10 Comments
Mfedna
What wonderful work you do…everything you make is so beautiful and flattering on you. You look terrific. You really have “fit” down. You are a good teacher, too. Thank you.
madebylaquana
Thank you!
Abbeydabbles
I've already said on IG how much I'm loving these shorts. Each outfit is superb too
MadebyLaQuana
Thanks lady!
Carolyn (Diary of a Sewing Fanatic)
"I know those with larger thighs like mine struggle with riding up between the legs and I find for my thighs, 8"-15" inseam tends to work for me. The closer the fit and heavier the fabric the less riding between the legs."
I gave up wearing shorts for just that reason. I could never get the ride up factor to work in my favor. O-M-G was that a mind-blowing comment. Love all the work you've done with making these patterns work for you and it was so interesting to follow your progress.
MadebyLaQuana
Thanks! I'm happy the process is interesting.
KS_Sews (Dressmakingbacles)
Nicely done! They look great especially those Ames! I don't love Bermuda style/length so I tend not to own many pairs of shorts because they ride up! Doh! But I love the raw hem on yours and just may make some denim cut-offs!
MadebyLaQuana
Yay, shorts! yes, length is so important to comfort and style.
Vanessa
Your shorts look great! You definitely have a wonderful pants block for building all the things you are doing. Thanks for the tips!
MadebyLaQuana
Thank you and glad I could help!