Finally, Pants! Simplicity 8056 and Another Simplicity 8014

February 17, 2019 / 12 Comments

Finally, I finished my pants!  Well, I’m happy with the outcome and it was a long time coming.  I actually could have finished these like two weeks ago, but apparently me and the embroidery machine have been having a little affair (insert shocked face)!  These pants are a wearable muslin, I like wearables because like I’ve said before, I like to wear a garment to work, sit down and stand up to get a good idea of my adjustments.  Also, some fabric tends to bag out and then I over correct to fit it and then it’s tight.  To remedy that, I try and get quality fabric and not over fit.  That’s easier said than done (insert eye roll), I almost over fit this pants, but because of the one inch seam allowance, it made It easier to adjust the fit.

The collar is floppy, why?  and why the wrinkles?!

I shared the muslin of these pants here Simplicity 8056.  I made another muslin, but it was a flop, I decided to jump in and trust the process.  I was over researching and stressing too much about every wrinkle.  I tend to think sewers can be a little harsh when looking at makes, I know I tend to hyper analyze and truthfully, “perfection is the enemy of progress”- Winston Churchill.  I know this, but it doesn’t stop me from being a crazy person wanting the perfect item!  I’m hard on myself because I feel I’ve been sewing long enough to know how to fit my body (insert sad face).  I really should be nicer to myself, and others in my assessments.  Fit, is a process and when taught right, it teaches you to deal with one thing at a time.  I was like, “aint nobody got time for that”.  well, actually that’s what needs to happen, taking one step at a time before moving on.

Sooo, I addressed length first, then circumference and finally depth, now I’ve heard this a gazillion times (not really a gazillion, insert eye roll) but a lot and once I understood that, I started to look at the process and the wrinkles differently.   Here’s a resource from Silhouette Patterns to for additional reading on Length, circumference and depth in relation to fit.  Also, I tried to think of the wrinkles rationally and try and figure out what to let out and what to take in to fix the issue.  This takes a little practice and sometimes you need help, and that’s ok.  Anyway, on to my adjustments, this pattern has been reviewed quite a bit and it is a basic trouser patterns so I’ll give the highlights:

Likes:

  • I love the curved waist band and the center back seam on the waist band, the waist band has a two piece waistband.  This is classic Amazing fit, the pattern is designed to make fitting easier.  If you have a sway back or a big butt, a center back seam is great for fitting.  Also, center back seams and two piece waistbands are very common on mens suit trousers which make for easy fitting.
  • One inch seam allowance at specific areas, and instructions to baste the crotch to help with adjustments.  This makes letting out or taking in easier and you’re not dealing with a freaking fraction (insert triple eye roll).
  • I like the flat front style.
  • Good fitting instructions along the way and pro tips to get nice finishes
  • I love that it comes with different back pattern pieces, slim, average and curvy!  
  • I love that there isn’t a back welt pocket, I don’t need any thing back there but it would be a nice addition for those who would like that.
Dislikes:
  • I don’t care for slant side pockets,  I would prefer a top pocket, but they do give good tips to prevent gaping.
What I did:
  • I used a poly/rayon suiting from fabric mart.
  • I cut a size 26W with the curvy back.
  • Lowered center front 1.5″.
  • I graded between sizes, 22w at waist to 26w at hip and then down to 20W at the hem, it was way too much fabric at the leg.  I wanted to keep the full  leg as per the design but not a super wide leg, I think for my body shape this looks better.  I also trimmed about 5/8″ from hem to just past the knee at the inseam.
  • I considered cutting the 24W for the front and 26W for the back similar to the muslin (I cut 22W for the front and 24W for the back for the muslin and it was tight at high hip), but I decided to try the pattern as instructed and make small incremental adjustments (that didn’t happen lol).
  • I scooped 5/8″ from the crotch curve to give more of an “L” shape to the crotch curve than the “C” the pattern had, this took some off the excess fabric under the butt away since my butt hangs low (insert eye roll).  The scooping was good, if it got tight, I could simply let out the side seam a bit.
  • I added 1.5″ to the back darts, I used my skirt block here to get the darts in the right place and the right length!
  • I originally added to the front and back leg extension and that was way too big in the thigh, so I took that off.  I forgot I cut the 26W and it’s a wide leg so there was plenty of ease.  I was confused because I intended to take the muslin copy of the pattern and add to the back extension, oops!
  • I took a one inch wedge from center back grading to nothing at the small dot. 
  • This was a lesson in doing one thing at a time and seeing how it works out.  It worked out but, after I graded the waist and high hip at the side seam, and then took the CB wedge, I realized, I could have just taken in center back; that took it in a bit at high hip, but no harm, I let out the side seam.   When I moved the adjustments to the pattern piece, I graded the waist at the side seam to 24W and took an inch off CB, that was a nicer fit and it didn’t mess with the pockets too much.
  • I added 1 1/4″ to the hem.
  • I adjusted the waist pattern pieces to correspond to the front and back adjustments.
  • Holy crap, I always interface the wrong waist pattern pieces (I get facing and waistband pieces confused) and then the are always backwards (insert triple eye roll)!
The darts are really good!!
What I will do next time:
  • I adjusted the pattern pieces after the fit adjustments, I won’t grade to the 22W at the waist, but the 24W and take the wedge from center back, that fit better.
  • I will do a knock knee adjustment, the inseam feels a little high and swings when I walk (nope!)
  • I will peg the leg a little more, maybe 3″-4″, give or take.  Where I cut at the 20W line at the hem, the finished leg opening is 24″.
  • Since this is a semi fitted silhouette (the ease is about 3 1/2″ for curvy back above body measurements), I will use this pattern and peg the legs about 7-8 ” for a nice straight leg pant.  I want to see if I can make this a TNT and or a block, all that work, I need to continually reap the benefits!
I think that’s it!  The shirt I’m wearing is a lost file, Simplicity 8014 button down shirt, I’ve made it a ton of times, here and here, but I wanted to share pics of me wearing it again for the blog.  This is cotton shirting I purchased at the FabricMart brick and mortar when I went to Sew Camp!   I think I need to add a Million Dollar Collar to this shirt, the floppyness is irritating.  Also, not sure why I have so many wrinkles ugh!  Anyway, can you say, TNT, if it aint broke, don’t try to fix it, right?   In true teenage fashion, my daughter did not like the shirt, she says it’s too big, I say it’s comfy, what do you think?

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12 Comments

  • Banzi

    December 18, 2019 at 8:15 pm Reply

    Looking great. Absolutely 'wearable muslin' and truly, the darts are great. I love your jeans and concur that fit is a procedure. I should attempt this example, a solid match for you. What the total cost of making this beautiful pant? Seems you are feeling free and can moves easily. Front Closure bras for Seniors

  • Unknown

    March 24, 2019 at 5:36 am Reply

    I really LOVE the shirt! Floppy collar and all! If however, the flop bothers you that much, can't you adjust the front neckline??? You said earlier on one of your patterns that you adjust the shoulder a bit, perhaps you also need to adjust the collar.

    Love the pants!

    I used to sew when I was a lot younger and used to just pick up a pattern and sew it and add on to the length and that was it! Haven't really sewn clothing since I grew up and out.

    We are about the same size. You are one inch bigger in the high bust and full bust but your shoulders are broader than mine from the looks of things. My shoulders are bony because I'm just shy of 60. I wish the rest of me would get that idea! LOL!

    I used to be 5'10", but I shrunk! LOL! (Just telling you what you have to look forward to!) Every time I think I've gotten a handle on what I need to do to adjust a pattern, my body changes.

    I fell down and hurt my hip and my back a couple of years ago. It took 2 years for the hip to heal so that I could walk without pain. I'm still healing in the back, so I went up a RTW pant size by 2".

    My preference is really pantskirts and I finally found some good patterns for that. I don't like knits to sew. I prefer wovens and in this day and age, most of the stuff I want to sew is in knit fabrics.

    I finally found a good Bra pattern that is woven material with no elastic. Just 2 buttons in the back which after I get it altered for my cup size, I will work on a front closure redesign. That's another issue I've been trying to solve. I hate bras. I hate underwires. I hate the fabrics and the sweaty knits because we live in FL and don't use air conditioning. Even if we did, you go out the door and the heat hits you so we just don't deal with the A/C bills.

    I literally steamed my new bra into a smaller band size just by going shopping in this heat and humidity and sweating all over the place! Yes, I did! Can't trust nylon spandex and elastic. It shrinks!

    Anyway, enough of my rant. I'm enjoying reading your posts and seeing all of the twists and turns required to produce beautiful clothes. You do a great job!

    I just wanted to say, "Do you know how beautiful you are when you smile?" You don't do it enough. You look so serious!

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