Pattern Review: McCalls 7838+ the 80’s and a Victorian Sleeve

Hi there!  I have a review for you, this Victorian/80’s inspired sleeve.  I didn’t jump on the sleeve trend last year, so I thought I’d try something different this month.  I wont bore you with commentary, but I will tell you, this shirt was supossed to be black and ecru (insert triple eye roll), OK, you all know I always have a story to tell!

So, what had happen was, I threw an entire bag of clothes in the washing machine without sorting it and without a color catcher!!!!!!!!!!!! BAAWWWW… soo, I’ve been sorting close for like 30 years, what in the ham sandwich possessed me to do that.  Pure D. LAZINESS!!  I threw this in with purple linen fabric I purchased in Denver and now I have a pinkish and black fabric, ugh, sometimes, I don’t know about me, if someone would have did that, it would have been heck to pay!  Anyway, instead of crying about it, I just turned my head and pretended that was the color it was supposed to be lol..

To style this top, I threw on a pair of RTW woven joggers and an over the top belt with some studded heels!  This is the most over the top you’re gonna get from me and I think I look cute, sort of muted, I tend to like more color, but this was an OK change, right?  I don’t think my hips balance this top, I believe a skirt with flounce or an A-line skirt would balance it out, or maybe sleeves that are not so puffy, this has me looking sort of like an inverted triangle.

Anyway, on to the review…

Pattern Description:

 
Loose-fitting button front tops with back yoke and length and sleeve variations. B: Wrong side of fabric shows on shaped hemline. C: Button cuffs.

SEWING LEVEL: Easy, confident beginner

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?

 
Yes
Were the instructions easy to follow?

 
Yes, these are basic instructions for sewing a button
down, collard shirt.  I found no errors, but there are a few books that
help with collars, etc.  I used the burrito method of attaching the yoke
facing, here’s a video tutorial.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

 
I like the different sleeves, I checked this pattern against my other side darted shirt/shirt dress pattern, Simplicity 8014
and they were identical except for the sleeve.  I really like the
different spin on the sleeves, the Victorian puff sleeve was the one I
tried, view B.  I’m excited to try the other sleeves although I’m a bit
of a plain Jane.  The collar on this top is big to me, not sure if I
dislike it, it’s more of an observation.  Also, it was hard to see the
true puffiness of the sleeve without stuffing them (which I was not
going to do) but, that’s also just an observation.  In a stiffer fabric, the
sleeve would hold it’s shape better than fabric with drape.
Fabric Used:
I used a stretch cotton sateen that was dyed by my negligence and now it’s a design detail.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

 
-I graded the pattern up but I will be taking it in at
the side seams, the waist and hip ease is sufficient  I believe the
waist had a 48″ finished garment measurement for size 22, which is 11
inches of positive ease.
-I cut a 22 and graded up to a 24 at the bust as a just in case, which
is my normal size; however, the bust of this shirt has five inches of
positive ease and typically I like 3 1/2″-4″ of positive ease at the
bust so grading up was unnecessary.  Also the stretch sateen gave a
little so all the additional ease will need to be removed. 
-I lowered the bust dart an inch, and shorted the dart an inch.  Lowering the dart is a standard adjustment for me, but not so much shortening the dart.
-I
lengthened the bodice 1 1/2″ on the front and back pattern above the
waist marking, this is also a standard adjustment for me.

Note:
I laid the pattern on top of my bodice block/sloper and I could tell
the bust dart and the waist were too high.  I also checked
my shoulder slope against the pattern and it was good.  The shoulder
length was a little shorter than mine but the sleeve was so dramatic, I
didn’t bother with making a broad shoulder adjustment.  Finally, I
really like shoulder yokes, that’s one less adjustment I need to make
for my forward shoulder.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Yes, and yes, I plan to make view A soon.

No belt and thread on my pants, I always have thread all over me lol!

What’s up next, I’m still playing with my pants block (quadruple eye roll), I have a shirt to make for my hubby and I’m thinking if I should make a costume (insert thinking emoji).  I also don’t have an outfit for my birthday which is in two days, ugh!!!


So, what do you think of my 80’s inspired look?  How do you like the sleeve/Victorian trend?