I’ve always wondered is there “too many” times you can make a pattern and these days I think no, well for me it’s no. You may not want to make the pattern exactly the same way each time, but things go so much faster when the fit is ironed out and you know the construction of the pattern. I’ve made Simplicity 8014 a ton of times and I actually couldn’t find the pattern so I grabbed this one out of the “pre donate pattern pile” (LOL). Yes, I have pre, pre donate piles as there can be stages to purging for me. This pattern had cup sizes and, multiple collars and what really caught my eye was the shoulder gathers. I’m call this one a TNT and hopefully you’ll see why over the next few weeks.
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| Inside look at the finished armhole and dart. I hope the dressmakers carbon comes out, I’m starting to use tailors tacks. |
I made up two muslins of this shirt because although I had a good idea from my TNT/ bodice sloper, I wasn’t sure how the front gathers would look on me in shirting and I wanted to double check the sleeve fit and length and how it will hang from the high hip. This week is the results of the first muslin, the pattern adjustments and finished garment. Next week, I’ll share the pattern results and finished product of the second pattern adjustment with final garment from that pattern.
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| Inside of the back yoke. When you forget your tag ,it gets in where it fits in LOL |
I did my normal initial flat pattern adjustments, these are done before the muslin for me and are needed after I measure the pattern and my body:
- Added 3″ to the front and back bodice piece at the lengthen/shorten line ( I realize I like longer button up shirts )
- Added 1.5 ” to the sleeve length
- I did a 1.5″ bicep adjustment
- Graded up to a size 24 at the waist and size 26 at the hip by slashing and spreading the front and back pieces. ( I cut the largest size 22 which is good for my neck but not shoulders)
- I did a broad shoulder adjustment on the front pattern and back yoke.
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| Side dart version, closed the shoulder gathers and added dart. |
After the first muslin,
- I realized I wanted the back to hang a little better so I added an addition inch (slash and spread) to the back piece at the seam allowance since the back has gathers and isn’t fitted so it would completely clear my high hip. This is just in case and in some fabrics, I adjust at the side seam to remove but it’s good to have.
- I slashed and spread the back piece below the yoke by one inch to give me an additional 2″ I just didn’t like the fit of the first muslin through the back. Since I added 3″ of length at the flat measurement stage I needed more width since it actually hit just at the widest part of my low hip.
- I also slashed and spread the bottom portion of the yoke by half an inch, which was half of the one inch lower back adjustment so I wouldn’t t have soo many gathers at the back and also if I wanted a pleat it wouldn’t be too big.
- I added an additional inch ish to the bicep adjustment.
- Lowered the armscye front and back 1/2″ and added to the side seam 1/2″ above the bust to account for the additional bicep width.
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| Back pattern, add length and then adjust for width. |
After the muslin I realized I didn’t love the gathers at the shoulder in shirting so I combined the two yokes (this is kind of weird to have two yokes at the shoulder and unnecessary for me) and started the process of rotating the gathers and adding darts. This is what was the result of the muslin fittings:
- Combined both shoulder yokes by overlapping at the seam allowance and tracing together.
- Trace off a front pieces, for the first one, I rotated the front gathers to a side dart by slashing and spreading.
I made this shirt out of a stretch cotton shirting I purchased from FabricMart and in true form I couldn’t find buttons (insert eye roll). I finally found some at Joann but looking for hot pink buttons was challenging! I added a pocket albeit slightly higher than I like but this was a last minute adjustment and I just eyeballed it LOL. I cut a 10″x6″ rectangle for the pocket, pockets are usually too small for me because they don’t adjust the pocket based on bust size (insert triple eye roll) so I measured what I thought would look good and just drafted a basic pocket and used the instructions in another pattern to finish and attach. Finally, I used the burrito method to finish the yoke.
Up next week, I’ll talk about the second variation to the front bodice (princess seams, yay!) and share my completed shirt. Next weeks post is much shorter LOL. I have one more on my table (classic white) which would make three from this pattern with only adjustments to the front bodice. I foresee many more variations of this and I’m excited.
I know it seams like a lot of adjustments, but really I’ve made a ton of button up shirts and many of these “adjustments” are lessons learned depending on fabric, desired silhouette and how much ease I want. Also, I had to make each adjustment and assess the fit before moving to the next adjustment so it’s a bit of a process but I like the problem solving so it doesn’t bother me. I’d rather do the work up front to get the garment I like and that fits then to rush and waste my good fabric. There’s no extra points for sewing without a muslin or straight out the package, or without adjustments sooo…
I find if I work things out in the muslin stage, I’m more apt to fix them on the pattern. When I’m making a final version I finish as I go and I’ don’t always like to pull out permanent stitches or go back to update patterns etc… while I’m working on what I think is the final. I just get pissed off and throw it in the trash (don’t ask). So, playing with the muslin is the opportunity for me to take my time so that I breeze through actual construction once everything is good to go. I also use scraps for muslins and fabric I don’t love so I don’t lose anything by doing this and now I have two and half shirts I love!
Until next week…
8 Comments
Joyce
love the colour of this shirt! I made this pattern during our winter (southern hemisphere) but wasn't sure I liked the gathers on the front… How did you take them out? I'd be interested if you could run me through the process please.
MadebyLaQuana
Joyce, thank you! for the dart manipulation, I slashed thought the gathers and rotated to to the side seam and made a dart. I did the reverse of this:https://shop.mybluprint.com/sewing/article/converting-darts-to-gathers/ . Hope this helps.
Bonnie @ sewplus.blogspot.com
I'm digging through my pattern stash, I'm pretty sure I have this pattern! I can't wait for next week's post to see the white version. I would love to see you wearing the shirts. Great job & thanks for explaining the fitting/muslin too. I'm excited!
MadebyLaQuana
I think I've seen your version! I think it had lace. The white shirt will be a few weeks since I need to fix the collar.
Marjie
I make many many versions of favored tops, skirts and dresses. If it works, let's roll with it is what I figure. No one else will know that your dozen different colored shirts are the same pattern, and, even if they do, is that really different from buying one you like and then buying it in all the different colors? I really like this color. Looking forward to seeing more of these shirts.
MadebyLaQuana
You're right, if it works! I'm also excited to see different fabrics and textures.
Carolyn (Diary of a Sewing Fanatic)
I have two shirt patterns – one with 2 different variations and one with a bow tie neckline – that I've worked all of my fit issues out and as you know I've made at least a dozen. Probably will make a dozen more since I've found I love sewing and wearing them. Finding a pattern that works allows me to play and use fabric in fun & interesting ways.
I'm thrilled that you found a pattern that works for you! Now that you've altered it to fit you, you will be able to make it in any color, fabrication or print that you want which to me is the essence of creative freedom.
Can't wait to see the rest of the shirts you make with this pattern!
MadebyLaQuana
You gave me another idea, bow tie neckline! I am happy I found one and I can't wait for the possibilities.